Within hours Kashi, Varanasi or Benaras grew on us. As we roamed aimlessly around the ghats of Varanasi, we could connect with this ancient city. The first impression of Varanasi can be quite overwhelming. The city, that is said to be even older than history is chaotic, confusing and in a state of pandemonium. We were greeted by a cacophony of various sounds and for a moment we rolled our eyes and thought, “why another crowded place”. Didn’t we have had enough of them. But we found that there are so many things to do in Varanasi and gradually, we fell in love with the ‘chaotic, crowded, dirty’, but an endearing Kashi.
The first impression that I have of the city was when I visited Varanasi during my childhood. We lovingly called the place Benaras. My memory fails when I try to recollect those experiences. Then I read ‘Joy Baba Felunath’ by Satyajit Ray and I wanted to come back to Benaras again to trace the path the iconic detective character had taken! (For the uninitiated, I am talking about Feluda, the suave Bengali detective who holds a dear place in almost all Bengali’s hearts).
So we traced the narrow alleys of Vishwanath Gali, we totally embraced the colour, sound and odour of the place. As we watched the corpse being burnt on funeral pyres, we could understand how ephemeral life could be. As we watched the many people performing the last rites of their loved ones at the ghats, little boys getting their head shaved for the first time, we realized that faith is unquestioning belief. We are happy that we experienced the city of light, not just visited it! And so we decided to write a comprehensive Varanasi Travel Guide that might help you with your visit to this ancient city.
Kashi, Varanasi or Benaras – what’s in a name?
According to Shakespeare, what’s in a name? In whatever name we call Varanasi, the place will remain as spiritual and charming as it is. Interestingly, the city has got all the three names and each has its own significance. So what do the names represent?
Kashi or Kāśi
It is of no surprise that Mark Twain had said Benaras or Varanasi to be older than history, older than legend. The spiritual capital of India, Varanasi has been referred to as Kashi (Kāśi) in Rig Veda, one of the most ancient Hindu sacred texts. Kashi is derived from the words Kaś that means ‘to shine’. Kashi is thus also known as the ‘city of light’. Perhaps, the city was the spiritual guide, the beacon to lost souls looking for enlightenment. Kashi was also known as Avimuktaka (never forsaken by Shiva), Rudravasa (the place where Shiva resides), Anandakanana, Mahasmasana, Surandhana, Brahma Vardha, Sudarsana and Ramya in various religious texts.
Varanasi
The name Varanasi came from the two river tributaries of Ganga that border the city. Varuna flows in the northern part and Assi flows in the southern part near the Assi Ghat.
Benaras or Banaras
Benaras is probably the modified or corrupted version of Varanasi. Some blame it on the colonizers who had changed the name to suit their accent.
Kashi is believed to be the ‘original ground’ created by Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati.
And there are many more legends, myths and stories spun around the city of light. Varanasi is the microcosm of Hinduism, the holiest pilgrimage sanctified by the religious scriptures. That is why perhaps Hindus want to visit Kashi once in their lifetime. But, religion apart, Kashi does have the ability to change you spiritually.
History of Varanasi (Kashi)
Varanasi has found mention time and again in Indian epics Ramayana and Mahabharata as well as Buddhists Jataka tales. Varanasi was the seat of Aryan civilization during the 2nd millennium BCE and was an important centre for trade and commerce. Varanasi was the capital of the kingdom of Kashi during 6th century BCE. Lord Buddha preached his first sermon at Sarnath, merely 10 km from Varanasi. The famous Chinese traveller Xuanzang, who visited Varanasi during 635 BCE, substantiated the glory and prosperity of Varanasi.
The prosperity of Varanasi declined during the Mughal rule, but was again revived by the Marathas. Under the British rule, it remained as a religious and commercial centre. The eventful history of the city can be seen at the various ghats of Varanasi.
What are the things to do in Varanasi?
If I have already bored you with too much history, let us travel back to the present. We stayed for 3 days in Varanasi and completely fell in love with the city. We explored the narrow lanes and alleys, enjoyed the kaleidoscope of colours, savoured the gastronomical trails and sought spirituality in the ghats of Varanasi. Here is our list of things to do in Varanasi. I am sure there are many and you can also discover your own delights.
Visit the Ghats of Varanasi
There are more than 70 ghats in Varanasi! The Ghats are the riverfront steps leading to the banks of the River Ganga. But Varanasi ghats are not just any other ghats. They are history in itself. The huge structures by the ghats tell you a lot about the story of the place.
The Dasaswamedh Ghat is the most important and famous one at Varanasi. Obviously, it is the busiest and you will always see a lot of people there taking a holy dip, shaving off their head or doing some puja. The evening Arti is also one of the major attractions of this Ghat.
The Assi Ghat at the southernmost end is comparatively less crowded, but an equally important Ghat. This place is mostly visited and inhabited by long-term students, researchers and foreign students. The morning Arti at Assi Ghat is a spectacle to watch.
Manikarnika Ghat and Harishchandra Ghat are the two places where cremations take place. You will see the pyre burning at any time of the day here. These two ghats are a bit dirty and do have a peculiar smell.
Pro Tip: Walk through the ghats. The numbers sound daunting, but the ghats are near each other. We walked from the Manikarnika Ghat (almost the middle point) to Assi Ghat, and then returned by auto to our hostel near Dasaswamedh Ghat.
Take a boat ride on the Ganges
Boat ride at the Ganges is a surreal experience, especially so if you do it early in the morning during the sunrise. There are two types of boats – the motorized one and the hand-rowed one. The motorized one will take a certain number of passengers, while you can hire a hand-rowed boat for yourself. You can talk to the boatman and fix a certain rate for a fixed amount of time on the boat. The ghats look quite beautiful from the river. A hand rowed boat would take between INR 500 – 700 for one-hour boat ride.
Pro Tip: Seeing the sunrise from the boat is a unique experience, but if you want to take some great pictures of the ghat from the boat, then take a boat ride later in the day.
Attend the Ganga Arti
Ganga Arti is one of the most spectacular things to watch at Varanasi. We had earlier seen the Arti at Haridwar. The evening Ganga Arti takes place at Dasaswamedh ghat and Rajendra Prasad Ghat. Morning Arti takes place at Assi Ghat. The evening arti starts at around 6:30 PM and lasts for 45 minutes. The morning Arti starts at about 5:45 AM.
You can see the Arti by booking special seats or by riding a boat. Even if you don’t do so, you will be able to see the Arti from the ghat. Believe us, the Ganga Arti is quite impressive.
Pro Tip: Try to attend the morning Arti at Assi Ghat. It is less crowded and you can watch the Arti in peace and take some great photographs.
Visit the temples of Varanasi
Kashi is known for its temples. The Kashi Viswanath Temple is the most revered temple and is considered one of the most sacred places of worship by the Hindus. You can hire an auto and visit the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Kaal Bhairav temple, Durga Kund Temple, Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple, Maa Annapurna Temple among others.
Pro Tip: Be careful while you visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple. There are a lot of touts there. Especially beware of the shopkeepers who ask you to keep your belongings at their locker for free (You are not allowed to take anything inside the temple). Well, nothing in this world is free.
Go on a culinary trail at Varanasi
Varanasi can be a gastronomical delight. And the place is an absolute delight for vegetarians. The Chaats of Varanasi are quite famous and it will be a sin not to try the famous Benaras Chaats. Have Kachori and Jalebi, numerous chaats and then the mouth-watering desserts. Try the Lassi, Rabri and the other sweets here. And after you are full, definitely try the famous Benaras Paan (betel leaf).
Pro tip: Street food is just awesome. Just stop in front of any shop and eat to your heart’s content. In winter, definitely try Malaiyo, another frothy dessert that tastes like heaven. And yes, do visit Blue Lassi.
What is Varanasi without the Galis (lanes and alleys)
Roam around the alleys of Varanasi. They are narrow, crowded and maybe even filled with cow dung. But you can see the real Varanasi at these alleys. There is a chance that you may get lost in the alleys as we did. We could not find our way to the main road. But in the process, we saw some very beautiful buildings, old temples and lots of subject for photography.
Visit the Flower Market, Kite Market, Kachori Gali and Daal Mandi. Well, Kachori Gali does not really sell Kachoris all the way. There are only a few shops there. We were very eager to have kachoris (a mouth-watering Indian dish) in the morning and headed straight towards the Kachori Gali, only to find most of the shops closed there. The Kachori shops are only a few that too at one end.
Daal Mandi is the big market place of Benaras. Some people asked us not to visit there. We understood later why they stopped us. It is a huge marketplace with so many alleys and bye-lanes that we simply lost our way through the mazes of shops. It was anyways interesting to see the hawkers shouting to market their goods and the colourful merchandise in the stores. After walking around for about 30 minutes through the puzzling lanes of Daal Mandi, we could find our way out to the main road! Phew! So do this at your own risk.
Take a day tour to Sarnath and Ramnagar Fort
Sarnath is just 10 km away and Ramnagar Fort is 10 km but in an opposite direction. You can hire an auto and make a day trip to both these places on a day. Negotiate with the auto driver about the rate. They usually charge less if you do both the trips together.
At Sarnath, we had hired a guide who took us around the attractions. After visiting 2-3 places, he took us to a saree shop. When we did not buy anything from there, he abruptly ended the trip there, saying there is nothing more to see. We could smell a rat and checked on the net and found that there are many more things at Sarnath. By that time the guide had left after taking the charge. We had to literally argue with our auto driver to take us to those places. Sarnath is basically a small place. You can see all the attractions by walking from one place to the other.
Pro Tip: At Sarnath, if you are hiring a guide, talk to them about the places you want to see and the rate. Negotiate the price with the auto driver if you are seeing the Ramnagar Fort also.
Visit Chunar Fort and Vindyachal if you have an extra day
I had wanted to visit the Chunar Fort as it had appeared in the Hindi novel ‘Chandrakanta’. It was known as ‘Tilismi Qila’ or the ‘Magical Fort’ in the novel. But as time did not permit, we could not visit the place. Located near Mirzapur on the Vindyachal ranges, the fort is quite an interesting place. You can make a day trip to Chunar Fort and Vindyachal.
3 days Varanasi Itinerary
There is so much to see, do and experience at Varanasi, that it might sound a bit overwhelming. So here we suggest a tentative 3 days itinerary of Benaras. This is what we did.
Day 1:
- Arrive at Varanasi.
- Visit the Temples of Varanasi in the afternoon.
- Watch the Ganga Arti at Dasaswamedh Ghat in the evening
Day 2:
- Take a boat ride in the morning and watch the sunrise.
- Have a breakfast of Kachori and Jalebi.
- Make a day trip to Sarnath and Ramnagar Fort (If you start by 10 AM, you will be back by 2 PM).
- Roam about the Varanasi alleys.
- In the evening go for a culinary trail.
Day 3:
- Visit Assi Ghat to see the morning Arti.
- Walk through the Ghats of Varanasi and immerse in the experience.
- Visit the markets in the afternoon.
- Leave Varanasi at night.
Where should I stay at Varanasi (Benaras)?
Varanasi has a number of hotels of various budget and categories. Ther are a number of guest houses, Dharamshalas (motels), hostels and hotels of various range. Decide where you want to stay. If you want the stay around the buzz and crowd, stay at any place near the Dasaswamedh Ghat or Manikarnika Ghat. If you are looking for peace, then stay somewhere near the Assi Ghat, Kedar Ghat or nearby.
Many of the buildings overlooking the ghats have been converted to heritage hotels. We stayed at Zostel which was about a km from the Dasaswamedh Ghat.
Best Time to visit Varanasi
The best time to visit Varanasi will be during any festival. The ghats will be lit up with numerous earthen lamps and it would be wonderful to watch. But also, there will be a lot of crowd. Otherwise, winters are the best time to visit Varanasi.
Visit Varanasi during Dev Deepavali on Kartik Poornima usually held in November. The entire ghat is lit with earthen lamps. We heard that the evening Ganga Arti is performed by 21 priests during the Dev Deepavali. But again, there will be a lot of people visiting Varanasi then.
Best Places to eat in Varanasi
For Chaats, we would suggest Kashi Chaat Bhandar and Deena Chat Bhandar near the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. The street shops are just as good.
For Kachoris, visit Gyanchand Kachori near Assi Ghat or any other shops near the Kashi Vishwanath Temple.
There are many roadside shops selling Rabri, Lassi and Malayio (only during winter). All are superb.
If you want to visit the cafes, the good ones are Kerala Café near Bhelupur, Vaatika Pizzeria at Assi Ghat, Dosa café and Brown Bread Bakery near Dasaswamedh Ghat. Bati Chokha is a veg restaurant serving some great food. But it is 3 km away from Dasaswamedh Ghat. For the meat lovers, El Parador near Maldahiya should be the place to head for.
How to avoid Scams in Varanasi – must read!
Now that we have spoken all the beautiful things about Varanasi, we also need to say a few words about the problems you might face there. No doubt the place is chaotic, crowded and unrelentingly indiscreet. Benaras is simply unapologetic. Benaras holds the reputation of having some ingenious scammers and you will be showered with constant attention from the touts. Of the many sadhus that you encounter at Varanasi, it is difficult to tell how many of them are real, and how many frauds. First timers and especially foreign tourists are the target of the scams. Here are a few of the known scams that you can avoid at Varanasi.
Cremation Wood Scam
This has been mentioned and told in a lot of places. Even Lonely Planet mentions it. This targets mainly the foreign tourists visiting the Ghats of Varanasi. Manikarnika Ghat is the place where the cremation takes place. While you are there, you might be approached by some well-spoken person who will probably tell you some story about the cremation process. He would then ask you for a donation to buy wood for some poor family. You might shell out a few bucks but the amount never goes to any poor. Simply ignore these people.
Over friendly historians
Again at the Ghats, someone who looks like a Sadhu or Pundit might approach you. He will start telling you about the history of the Ghat and Benaras. And then he would ask for money. It is better to ignore these people at the beginning. If you really want to know about Benaras, take part in the heritage walks in Benaras. You will spend some amount, but will not be cheated. Search online, look at Trip Advisor and then select your guide.
Hotel shut down
This happens mostly to first-time visitors to Varanasi. Once you are at the airport or railway station, you will be approached by auto and cab drivers. If you do not know about the location of the hotel, the driver will take you near the location of the hotel and then ask some shopkeeper about the location. That person (who is probably an accomplice) will tell that the hotel is shut down. Then they will take you to another hotel and quote a higher price.
It may also happen that the auto driver takes you to a different place and try to pass it off as that particular hotel.
The best thing you can do in this case is confirming from the hotel itself and ask for a pickup. If you are taking a pre-paid taxi, then do not hand over the receipt to the driver until you reach your destination.
Boat Tours
At the ghats, you will get various rates of boats. It is better to see a few boats and then decide. Also, bargain a lot.
Free Lockers
Near Kashi Viswanath Temple, you will see a lot of shopkeepers will ask you to avail free lockers at their shop to keep your belonging. Try to refrain from these shops. Most of these are scammers and will try to extract money from you by selling you stuff.
Guides at Sarnath
If you are taking an auto from Varanasi to Sarnath, the auto driver will take you to a guide. The guide will tell you politely to pay whatever you want and he will show a couple of places. And then he takes you to a Saree shop. You are expected to buy something from the shop so that he gets his cut money. We did not buy anything and so our tour ended abruptly. We had already paid him and later found out many other places to visit in Sarnath. When we confronted our auto driver, he asked for extra money. So before you start your tour, research the places to see and talk beforehand with the auto driver about the attractions and rate.
And then you will be approached by many Sadhus, frauds dressed as sadhus, beggars and many people asking for money. It is better to ignore all these people.
We felt that Varanasi is much like our hometown Kolkata. There are so much to know and so many things to do at Varanasi. It takes little time to get acquainted with it. But once you know the place, it is hard not to fall in love with the city. You have to see the soul of Varanasi, it is simply bewitching. Otherwise, it is just another dirty Indian city!
Here are a few more pictures of Varanasi!
Liked the post. Pin it for a later read!
Superb article A & A. Just what I wanted, as am planning a solo trip to Benares. Kudos and keep up the great work.
Thank you so much for the appreciation. 🙂
I am visiting Varanasi soon. This guide is superbly helpful. I had no clue about the morning aarti, I guess I have to wake up early and check it out one of the days 🙂
Thank you Antarik. Do check out the morning Arti. It is not that crowded and perfect for taking pics.
Great post Amrita! I’m planning to visit Varanasi for Holi, shall definitely bookmark your post 🙂
Great Avantika!, I am sure you will love Varanasi. 🙂
One of the best informative articles I have read on Varanasi. Your photos are amazing. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Jane!
I visited Varanasi last year and this is something I would call a lifetime experience! I agree with you when you say that the first impression might be overwhelming. I think no other places in the world touched me as deep as Varanasi did. Your post brought me back very intense memories. I knew the city had a few names but I didn’t know the meaning of them. Thank you for the details! Personally I’ve always called it Varanasi. At that time I didn’t know there were scams around and unfortunately we got scammed by a guy who asked money for the wood to the poor people, exactly how you described it. We didn’t know then. It’s so sad that people take advantage of tourists in such a holy place. I hope this will change one day. Amazing post!
Thank you so much. I am glad that we could rekindle your memories. We too hope that someday, these scams are put to an end.
Thanks for putting all of this info together. It’s always great to have so much background on a place!
Thank you Caitlin!
Good post. To many westerners who have not visited India, the country is a bit mysterious and confusing. Although I’ve spent a little time in India but this post really opened my eyes. Thanks for the good info, also.
Thank you Jim. India can be totally confusing and chaotic. But also beautiful. Hope you have a wonderful time here when you visit next.
What spectacular photos you have shared. I feel like I am in Varanasi myself. I love the guide about how to both enjoy the ghats and the cremations, but also, how to avoid the scams. I found it a little strange to be talking about watching a cremation one minute, and then, talking about how we should eat all the street food around! LOL! I don’t know if I would have an appetite after watching someone get cremated. Excellent post with fantastic suggestions.
Thank you Nicole! I can understand your apprehensions about watching a cremation and then having street food. But that is a part of Varanasi. We too enjoyed the street food later. 🙂
Very colourful and vivid pictures! I was really drawn to them , and the posts were so detailed.
Thank you Adele. I am glad that you like the post.
Wow! This is such a thorough and informative post on Varanasi! I really like how you keep it real and don’t hide the negative aspects like the scams of the area. They are everywhere – so it’s good to be prepared if you go somewhere. Excellent information!
Thank you so much. Tourist traps and scams are a part of any popular destination. It is better to know about them before a visit.
Thank you for this interesting history about the name of the city. I visited a couple of years back and was mind-blown by this beautiful city in which time appears to have paused 🙂
Thank you Daniel. Varanasi is indeed a beautiful city!
I love everything about Varanasi, I visited a few years back and going to visit again in a couple of months. Your detailed post does justice to this ancient city. So glad you visit Blue Lassi 🙂
Thank you Suman. Since you had suggested about Blue Lassi, I made it a point to visit the place. 🙂
I appreciate that you included some tips about the possible scams in the world. It’s interesting how different countries and regions each have their own varieties. All scams aside, it seems like there is a lot of things to do in the city. I like the idea of taking a boat ride on the Ganges during sunrise.
Thank you Elizabeth. Like all popular tourist destinations, it is also prey to the tourist scams. But, Varanasi is a fascinating city.
Good read. Loved the description 🙂
Thank you Sonal!
Honestly, I have not heard a ton about KASHI, VARANASI OR BENARAS although after reading your itinerary, this is definitely somewhere I would like to visit!
I will be watching out for these scams you refer to, as well!
Great post!
Thanks, Emily! Yes, if you ever visit Varanasi, you should keep your eyes opened for these scams.
I had known only of two of the names, Varanasi and Benares, I didn’t realise Kashi was yet another name for this place. I appreciate your sharing some more of the history of the place, as well as so many lovely photographs showing both the stunning architecture and setting, as well as the people. I would love to visit the flower market and kite market next time we go.
Thank you Kavita! Kashi is the old name of Varanasi.
Interesting read. I guess ‘chaotic, crowded and dirty’ is something that applies to many places in India, yet there is no other country that will grab your heart faster. From what I understand 3 days would be enough to visit Varanasi at length. I’d absolutely love to go there someday. Your pictures are so evocative!
Thank you Anda! Its true that ‘chaotic, crowded and dirty’ can be applied to many Indian cities and it is also true that India captures your heart like no place else.
I have lready bookmarked your article for my upcoming trip to Varanasi and shall remember all insider tips that you have mentioned out here. What a lovely post
Thanks Debjani! Enjoy your trip at Varanasi.
Varanasi has been in our bucketlist for sometime now. Your post and pictures make me want to rush there right now. Beautiful captures!
Thank you Pujarini! Varanasi is truly magical.
I was born and brought up in India and had the chance to visit Banaras twice when I was a child. I must say this post got back loads of memories. It is a mesmerising place to visit and I would love to go back one day . The ghats have so much to offer from prayers to the piers that never stop burning. Love the colours and the food of the city as well. Thanks for sharing
Thank you Amar. Surely, Banaras is truly mesmerising.
I prefer call it Kashi. I love the ancient name, Kashi is truly magical. I hardly spent a day there and I fell in love with this city so much. I must plan again. The best part of kashi is the morning aarti and the boat ride. It is a surreal experience.
I know, Kashi is truly magical. Thank you Parnashree!
Nice Blog! Varanasi is the most attractive place to visit. Very nicely written and information provided is quite helpful.
Benaras is so vibrant and magical. I absolutely love this place, it is the mix of everything. I hope I get to travel again soon here. BTW loved your blog, thanks for giving me new ideas for my next trip.
Thank you so much Shunhangi! Benaras is indeed stunning.
Good description about Kashi. Thanks to Satyajeet Ray ji. Two important things / monument needs to be appended in the text is the ‘Bharat Mata Mandir’. One might say.. oh-no.. another one. Well, Kashi is city of Temples and Ghats but this temple is unique.
What makes the religious place so unique is that there are no statues of Gods and Goddess, but the temple features the map of an ‘undivided’ India as its prime deity and personifies ‘Mother India.’ It is a must see place. Secondly there should be a mention of Geographic Identification product in Kashi or Banaras. There are seven GI’ products by name Banaras. Wooden Toys, Gulabi meenakari… Etc
Thank you so much Sonal for stating these. Yes, we missed Bharat Mata Mandir on our visit to Varanasi last time. We intend to visit there the next time we are in Kashi. Thanks again.
I enjoy reading the aforementioned blog since it is both interesting and effective, and it clearly explains everything. Thank you for your time and consideration, and best of luck with your future articles. Thank you for providing such valuable information. It was quite helpful to me. I’m always looking for interesting things to read, and I finally found it in your article. Continue on!
Thank you so much for your kind words, Keep reading our blogs. Thanks again!
Very informative content.
Varanasi has all the flavors of old times and new age.
You can find ancient way of people worshipping and traditional way of dealing things specially around ganga.
And new age things like
Cruze on river, new NAMO ghat, new convection center Rudrach etc.
Varanasi is a magical feeling which one can only feel when he or she is in varanasi.
hank you for the comment. Yes, Varanasi is a wonderful place that has something to offer to everyone.
so I read some of the other blogs before this but they are not that engaging , because they don’t use that many photos, and those who use images seem like very abstract but your blog is much better than that keep going
Thank you so much for youy kind words!
Nice post. As an resident of varanasi i can say that u have mentioned all info on it.
Keep up the good work.
All the best
Thank you So much
So Impressed by your TRIP details and Tips. Good Job.
Wow its a Wonderful Described about Kashi/ Varanasi. After reading I too lost in your words streets. Later seems to me as you are a real Mystic or Sadhu. Wish someday I meet you to listen your journeys of Enlightenment.
Thank you for your kind comment!
beautiful information bros
Thank you!
beautiful and useful information bro
Thank you so much!
Thank you for sharing your incredible travel experiences and creating a virtual space that allows us to escape, dream, and wanderlust along with you. Your blog is an invaluable resource for travel enthusiasts like myself, and I eagerly await each new post, eagerly anticipating where your next adventure will take us.