About the Blog: This travel blog is an experiential account of Goechala Trek that we did a few days back. Goechala Trek in Sikkim is a multi-day Himalayan trek that brings you as close as possible to the Kanchenjunga ranges, which also happens to be the world’s third highest mountain. We completed this trek and understood why Dzongri and Goechela trek is often considered to be a mind game as well! Read on to know more.

I was scared. Sitting in my homestay at Yuksom, all I could think was that the next day I was going to start the Goechela trek. I was going to do another Himalayan trek after almost 5 years. The last multi-day Himalayan trek that I did was Rupin Pass. A long time has passed since then. I have changed a lot since then. So, I was anxious, a little bit excited, a lot more scared whether I will be able to complete the trek.

Even with all my jumbled-up feelings. I was able to sleep soundly that night dreaming of a bit of mountains and forest trails and Dzongri and Goechela trek!

About Goechala Trek, Sikkim

Goechala Trek in Sikkim is one of the grandest treks in India. The trek starts from Yuksom in West Sikkim and takes us to the base of Mount Pandim and as close as possible to Mt. Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. It requires at least 8 days of trekking starting and ending at Yuksom.

The trekking trail is located within the Kanchendzonga National Park, a UNESCO World heritage site, starting with a narrow forest trail and then gradually opening up to mighty landscapes from Dzongri. There are waterfalls, suspension bridges, streams and snow-capped ranges peeking at times. And a grand view of the Kanchenjunga ranges.

All these reasons were enough for us to decide on the Goechela trek. But was I prepared for the trek? Only time would tell!

Siliguri to Yuksom

We started from Siliguri in the morning. After facing the traffic jam in Siliguri (which I seriously think is worse than in Kolkata), our car drove on the scenic Sevoke Road beside the familiar Teesta River flowing down below the gorges. Within a few hours we were at Melli which is the entry point to Sikkim. We crossed Jorethang and took our way towards West Sikkim. After a really long drive, we  reached Yuksom at around 6 PM in the evening.

Meeting the Team

We did the Goechala Trek with a renowned trekking agency in India. There were 24 of us in the group along with our trek leader, guides and other staff.

One of the best things about trekking is that we get to meet different people and some of the friendships forged in these trek routes become lifelong.

Our Goechela trek group was a mixed bag. We were not only from different states in India, but also from different countries, having interesting professions and diverse personalities. While there were some who could talk non-stop, there were also a few who would hardly speak 2 sentences at a stretch! The youngest member was in her teens while the oldest ones were in their forties! And keeping together this eccentric team was our mild mannered trek leader and our ever smiling local guides. And together, we were ready to scale new heights and conquer the 15,100 feet milestone.

We stayed at a homestay in Yuksom for the night. And all night I was in a state of nervous excitement.

 And the trek begins…

Yuksom to Sachen (7400 feet)

• Distance: 8 km
• Time Taken: 5 hrs

Today is the day! The trek begins this morning!

This was the first thought that came to my mind when I woke up. After a hearty breakfast, we were all ready for the day. The trail started right behind our homestay. After hiking for around 20-25 minutes, we could see the green entry gate to Kanchendzonga National Park. And we also encountered the first suspension bridge on the trail over the Pha Khola stream. The water looked milky white amidst the green forest vegetation. We crossed the bridge and then officially entered the Kanchendzonga National Park.

The trekking trail is through thick green forests with uphills and some downhills on the way. We crossed 2 more bridges – one hanging bridge over Tshushay Khola stream and another small concrete bridge over a small gushing stream known as Mintok Khola.

As usual, I felt out of breath as we started our uphill trek. But with time, I felt much better and more attuned with nature. I could hear the continuous humming of the insects, the sound of falling fruits from the trees and the sounds of the flowing rivers as we came closer to them.

After 4.5 hours, we reached Sachen, our first campsite. To be honest, Sachen is not an ideal campsite. There is a single log hut which serves as a kitchen and shop a few meters down the trail. Our tents were pitched on a small clearing a little away from the log hut. We were tired after the first day and so a cup of tea was god-sent to us.

Sachen is a small campsite and there weren’t any places to explore there. Also it was the first day, so after having dinner, we simply got into our tents for a well needed rest.

Sachen (7400 ft) to Tshoka (9800 ft) via Bakhim (8650 ft)

• Distance: 7 km
• Time Taken: 5 hrs

We started from Sachen at around 8.30 am and started our trek towards Tshoka, our next campsite. The jungle was getting denser and the air cooler. The trail consisted of gradual ascents and descents. Finally, an uphill trail took us to Bakhim.

 We stopped at Bakhim for lunch and tea. There is a small tea stall at Bakhim.

From Bakhim, the trail is again uphill amidst rhododendron forest. We trekked through the forests wondering how they would look during the flowering season in April, till we reached a large clearing. Well, we reached Tshoka!

Tshoka had a clear camping ground and a small monastery also. We reached Tshoka at around 2 pm and after having a cup of hot tea, we went out exploring the monastery.

Tshoka also has a trekkers’ hut that can house nearly 20 people.

Tshoka (9,800 ft) to Dzongri (13,190 ft) via Phedang (12,105 ft)  and Deorali (13,100 ft)

• Distance: 9 km
• Time Taken: 7 hrs

The morning was bright and just as I came out from our tent, I could see the snow capped Pandim ranges just looming in front of me. We were all happy to see the first glimpse of the mountains. However, our trek leader also mentioned that this was going to be one of the toughest days.

The altitude gain was going to be the highest and the entire trail was uphill and tough. We started at our usual time from Tshoka towards Dzongri. A few minutes on the trail and I could well understand why this day was said to be the litmus test for the Goechala Trek.

In between there are some wooden pathways that provide a bit of relief from the uphill climb. After a steady and strenuous climb for 4 hours, we finally reached Phedang.

Phedang has a small tea stall and eatery run by the caretaker of the monastery of Tshoka. The lady comes everyday from Tshoka to Phedang to run the shop and then returns back. We had tea, maggi and an omelet at Phedang.

On a clear day, Mt. Pandim could be clearly seen from Phedang. But when we were there, the sky was overcast with clouds and we did not get any view!

After a well deserved break, we started again. The trail now went through the rhododendron forests. It was another uphill trail. I was completely out of breath and for the first time in days, my rucksack seemed like a huge weight over me. Almost an hour later, we reached Deorali at 13,080 feet, also the highest point of the day.

There is a small shrine and prayer flags at Deorali along with a small gazebo. We took a small picture break at Deorali and continued on our trail towards Dzongri.

After another 40 minutes and a downhill trail later, we finally reached Dzongri!

Dzongri is a beautiful place. It is a large meadow surrounded by mountain peaks. There is a trekkers’ hut at Dzongri that can house almost 30 trekkers. Our campsite was almost 1 km away from this place.

The day was tough. Infact, I would call it the second toughest day in the entire trek. But once we reached Dzongri, both Agni and I were just happy! We were happy to be still strong after a long day of trekking. We were happy to be fit and fine at 12,105 feet. We were simply happy to be trekking again after such a long time.

Dzongri Top (13,675 ft)

This was going to be a relatively easy day. We would trek to Dzongri top and return back to the campsite and spend the entire day there.

From Dzongri top, you get a panoramic view of the mountain ranges – the Kanchenjunga, Pandim, Kabru South, Kabru North, Kabru Dome, Rohtang, Kakthong and the Lama Lamini peaks, provided the weather remains clear. The entire Singalila range appears before you.

The caveat was that we had to start at 4.30 am in the morning towards Dzongri top at 13,670 ft. We woke up and started our trek in the dark with our headlamps in place. 50 minutes later, we were at Dzongri top.

The first rays of the sun were just falling on the mountains making them glow like gold. And we stood there looking mesmerized at the view in front of us.

People often ask us why we trek. Why do we put so much strain on our body. I really do not have a clear answer for them. We trek because it brings us as close to nature as possible. We trek because it clears our mind. And we trek, probably because we get to see such things! The pictures do not do justice to what we actually see through our eyes!

As the sun rose, the sky changed its colors. We spent some time at Dzongri top and then came back to our campsite.

When we got lost at Dzongri

It was a free day and so we went on to explore the place. We walked along the meadows and went towards another dilapidated looking hut. It was then a thick fog came rolling in and we could not even see what was in front of us. We decided to get back to our campsite when we realized that we had come quite a lot from our campsite. And wherever we looked, everything was the same. We simply could not determine which way we had come from.

We randomly took a trail and walked down that path. 15 minutes were gone and we were nowhere close to our campsite. In the meanwhile, the fog kept coming in and the visibility was really poor. We kept on walking (rather searching for our campsite) for some time, but without any success.

I was a bit anxious by then. I knew we wouldn’t be lost, but I wanted to get back to our camp soon. We wandered aimlessly for another few minutes when we met a shepherd. We asked him about our campsite and fortunately he pointed us in the right direction. It so happened that we had walked entirely in the opposite direction when we went looking for our Dzongri camp.

Finally, we found our way and reached our campsite.

The evenings were really cold and the team would huddle inside the large dining tent. And we played cards, uno, Mafia and all kinds of games. Some of us would also talk and a few others observed!

Dzongri (13,190 ft) to Thansing (12,910 ft) via Kokchurang (12,090 ft)

• Distance: 7 km
• Time Taken: 6 hrs

We started at our usual time. The trail from Dzongri to Kokchurang started through the green meadows and then there was a descent. After about 2 hours we reached Kokchurang. There is a small trekkers’ hut at Kokchurang, but it was closed.

We crossed two small bridges and came to an open space. The Prek Chu river was roaring by the side and Mt. Pandim stood tall on the horizon. We stopped here for an early lunch.

There is another hanging bridge over the Prek Chu River that we had to cross. After crossing the bridge, we entered the rhododendron forests again. I could only imagine how colorful the place would look during the flowering season!

After Kokchurang, it was an ascending trail to Thansing. We finally reached Thansing at around 3.30 pm.

Thansing is a big meadow. It had a broken-down trekkers’ hut and a small shop. Our campsite was just a few meters ahead of the shop.

Thansing campsite is one of the best ones in the Goechela trek. We could see the mountains from there and the meadows were all encompassing.

The next day was the summit day and the most difficult one because of the sheer distance we had to cover. Also, we had to start as early as 1 am in order to reach the summit before sunrise. So after a quick dinner, all of us went into our respective tents for a well deserved rest.

Thansing (12,910 ft) to View Point 1 (15,100 ft) via Samiti Lake (14,120 ft) and back

• Distance: 16 km
• Time Taken: 10-11 hrs

Summit days are always exciting. We know that day would be challenging, but also most rewarding. There was a palpable enthusiasm in the group even at 1.00 am. We were ready for the trek.

We started our trek and the initial 5 km was an easy walk through the meadows.  After Lamuney, the real fun starts. The trek to Samiti Lake was entirely uphill. With our headlamps in place we crossed streams, walked over rocky terrains to finally get a glimpse of the waters of the Samiti Lake.

We walked past the lake and took the trail to the Viewpoint 1 of Goechela summit. The path here was a bit rocky with moraines all around. We resumed our climb towards Viewpoint 1.

It was a long climb. I was tired and for a moment I thought that I would not be able to make it to the viewpoint 1. However, Agni was there with me all the time encouraging me not to give up. Finally at around 5.15 am, I made it to the top.

Was I happy?

For a moment, it did not even register in my mind that I had made it to 15,100 feet. But when it did, I was ecstatic. Nothing could beat my giddiness at being able to trek to the summit. I was so happy that I didn’t even care that there was no view that day!

No views!

Unfortunately, that morning, the cloud Gods decided to make an appearance and give the Sun God a break. The sky was overcast with clouds and we could not see even a single mountain range from Viewpoint 1. On top of that, it was so cold! The winds were bitingly cold and most of us were shaking like leaves on top.

We took a few pictures on top and then gradually retraced our steps back towards the Samiti Lake. After Agni and I trekked down and came near the Samiti Lake, I finally realized that we had not gotten a view at all. All this time I was just too happy to make it to Viewpoint 1. The disappointment came in then. But what could be done? If the Mountain gods do not want you to see them, you do not get to see them.

Did you know? The Sikkimese consider Mt Kanchenjunga as their guardian and protector deity. They worship the mountains and pay homage to the mountains through Cham dance. Read our article on Pang Lhabsol to know more about it.

We spent some time near the Samiti Lake, took some photographs and then finally started our trek back towards Thansing.

I was on my way when Agni, who was behind me, called me out loud.

“Look”, he said. And I looked at his pointing finger. And I saw the glimpse of the Kanchenjunga peak amidst the clouds.

Oh my God! Is the Mountain God finally deciding to meet us?

We decided to wait there for some time to see if the clouds cleared up. And while looking at the Kanchenjunga, I turned to my right to see Mt Pandim standing tall in front of us. The clouds cleared and we could see Mt Pandim. It seemed so close, as if just within our reach.

And within a few minutes, the clouds cleared and the third tallest mountain in the world was standing right in front of us. I was speechless, and so was Agni. This was a moment that will forever remain etched in my mind. While we took a few photographs, no pictures or videos could relay our feelings at that moment.

The mountains were so close. I could only imagine how grand they would have looked from the Viewpoint 1.

We spent a considerable amount of time in the middle of the trail simply gazing at Kanchenjunga and Pandim ranges lovingly. It seemed that the universe wanted us to see the Kanchenjunga ranges up close and personal.

Our hearts were reluctant to leave the place, but our feet dutifully carried us back to Thansing basecamp. It was a great day with a successful summit climb and view of the snow covered mountains. What else could we want?

The rest of the day passed in a blur and soon it was dinner time and time to go to sleep.

Thansing (12,910 ft) to Tshoka (9,800 ft) via Kokchurang (12,090 ft) and Phedang (12,105 ft)

• Distance: 13 km
• Time Taken: 8 hrs

Goechela trek starts and ends at the same point, Yuksom. We had to return by the same path. While returning, we started from Thansing and followed the same trail to Kokchurang. From Kokchurand, instead of going back to Dzongri, we took a different trail to Phedang.

Our trek leader had said that this trail was going to be an “endless trail”. The path from Kokchurang to Phedang was through a narrow trail through the forests and it was literally an endless one. It was a moderate trail with gradual ups and downs. But it seemed to go on forever. We kept on walking and walking. It took us almost 4 hours to reach Phedang. And I was really happy to see the small clearing and the tea stall at Phedang.

We had our lunch at Phedang and then retraced our path back to Tshoka.

It was the penultimate day and all of us went crazy that evening. We played songs and danced like crazy.

Tshoka (9,800 ft) to Yuksom (5,840 ft) via Sachen (7,400 ft)

• Distance: 14 km
• Time Taken: 6 hrs

This was the last day of the Goechela trek. We started from Tshoka at around 8.30 am and followed the same path as we came. We crossed Sachen and then continued with gutso towards Yuksom. By the time we reached the Kanchendzonga national Park gate, it was 1.30 pm.

I was quite happy thinking that we have reached. But do not make the mistake of thinking that the trek has ended. There are a few ascents after this.

This was the part where I was frustrated. I simply could not fathom why there was an ascent at the end of the trek. Aren’t we losing altitude? Anyways, even with all my frustrations and tiredness, we had to walk for another hour until we reached our homestay at Yuksom.

By the time we reached our homestay at Yuksom, I was thinking of doing the Dzongri Goechala trek again in the rhododendron season! Am I crazy? You tell me.

Things That I Learnt from Goechala Trek?

Goechala Trek is not only one of the most beautiful treks in India, but also one of the toughest. Some days play with your mental strength along with the strength in your limbs. This trek is also a great teacher. While each of our adventures on the road had taught us something, here are a few things that I learnt from the Dzongri Goechala Trek.

Never Say Never

The summit day had drained me. Trekking in the dark over screes and rocks was difficult. There was a time when I thought I would not be able to reach the top. But I did it. 

Even more inspiring was one of our trek mates. He had breathing problems and had to be administered oxygen in our Dzongri camp. He could not make it to Dzongri top. But he climbed to Viewpoint 1 on summit day. He might be the last one to reach, but he made it to the top. So, never say never.

Physical Fitness is Important

It is extremely important on treks. During the Rupin Pass trek, I had a knee injury. I was younger that time, yet could not avoid it. As a result I was quite nervous before the Goechala trek. But I had worked on my fitness as well. Just before this trek, we had run the Vedanta Delhi Half Marathon. 

And it reflected on the trek. I was slow, but I did not have to drag myself through the trek. I enjoyed hiking through the forests. While the uphill ascents were a bit difficult for me, it never completely fazed me out. I also carried my own rucksack for the first time on a trek. 

I also realized that I have difficulty in the higher altitudes. That means I have to work harder towards my fitness. 

And so is your Mental Strength

Goechala is a test of your mental strength. There are so many ascents and descents in this trek on a single day and it makes it more of a mind game. The trail from Tshoka to Dzongri top is one of the most difficult. They say, if you can do this, you will do Goechala. 

There will be times when the body would want to give up. But the mind keeps you on track. You keep walking until the mind says so. You will be surprised by your own will power and determination. 

Leave the Nature and Trail as Pristine as possible

The trails in Goechala trek were pretty clean and so were the campsites. The trekking agencies make it a point to keep the campsites clean and proper. Yet, at some places we saw chocolate wrappers. We had picked these wrappers up on the trail and campsites and brought them back to Yuksom. But it would have been better if there were no wrappers to pick up in the first place. I am sure we will get there some day!

Don’t underestimate the cold even on the first 2 days

You will feel the humidity and warmth on the first 2 days of the trek. However, be careful with the cold. There are water sources at Sachen and Tshoka where you can take a bath. But do it with caution. I had caught a terrible cold on the first night and it irritated me for the next 3 days. 

Between the Mountains and Man, the Mountain Always Win

There is no arguing with this. So we simply need to respect the mountains and nature. We are very small creatures in front of the bigger picture. So stay grounded and enjoy the time spent in the mountains.

In Conclusion

Before the trek, I was not sure whether I would be able to complete the trek without problem. After I completed the Goechala Trek, I am thinking of my next trek. The Dzongri Goechala Trek is a difficult one. It also plays with your mental strength. Completing the trek is a high point in my life. More so because I did a trek after almost 6 years.

Also, Goechela Trek took me very close to my favorite mountain range – the Kanchenjunga. Nothing could be better than this. Actually, Goechela made me fall in love with trekking again! And I can’t stop thinking, what next!

And now some Advices, Tips and Suggestions for Goechala Trek

What is the Best time to do Goechala Trek?

The trekking season for Goechela trek is between April to May and October to November. Do the trek in April to mid-May if you want to see the blooming rhododendrons.

October-end to mid-November is one of the best times to do Goechala Trek. The weather remains clear and the views are magnificent.

However, you never know in the mountains. We went in October end and had an overcast sky. It might rain in the beginning of October.  

How to Do the Goechala Trek?

You cannot do the trek alone. You will need a guide to enter the Kanchendzonga National Park. You can take the services of many trekking agencies in India for Dzongri Goechala Trek.

You can also hire a local guide from Yuksom and do the trek. They will arrange for the porters, food, tents and all the things required for the trek. If you have a group of 5-6, taking a local guide from Yuksom will  be quite cost effective as well.

How to Reach Yuksom, Goechala Trek Base Camp?

Yuksom is the base camp for Dzongri Goechala Trek.

By Air:

The nearest airport is Bagdogra in West Bengal. Bagdogra is well connected by flights from major cities in India. Yuksom is about 150 km from Bagdogra. You can get to Yuksom by car that will take about 7 hours to reach.

By Train:

New Jalpaiguri is the nearest Railway Station, which is well connected to major cities in India. Yuksom is around 155 km away. You can get to Yuksom by car that will take about 7 hours to reach.

By Road

You can hire a car from either Siliguri in West Bengal or Gangtok in Sikkim to reach Yuksom.

Shared vehicles are not easily available. From Siliguri, you have to t ake a shared jeep to Jorethang and from there, another shared jeep will take you to Yuksom.

Mobile Connectivity at Goechala Trek

You will get mobile and internet connectivity at Yuksom. While on the trek, we got Airtel connectivity in patches at Sachen and Tshoka campsite.  

Electricity at Goechala Trek

Yuksom is the last place where you will get electricity on the Goechela trek. The entire trekking trail has no electricity. So charge your phones, cameras, power banks etc before you leave Yuksom for the trek.

Are there ATMs in Yuksom?

There are no ATMs in Yuksom. You will get ATMs at Jorethang, Geyzing, Legship and Pelling. Carry enough cash for transactions on the trekking trail. However, UPI works well in Yuksom.

Where to Stay at Yuksom?

There are plenty of hotels and homestays in Yuksom. If you are taking the  service of any trekking company, you might not have to worry about your stays.

Fitness for Goechala Trek

Please do not take your fitness for granted in Goechala Trek. This is a moderately difficult trek. Apart from the first 2 days, the days will be long. Moreso, there will be a lot of ascents and descents which ultimately becomes a mind game. You need to be fit enough to trek for hours in high altitudes.

A Few More Photographs of the Goechala Trek

Hope you liked the article. If you enjoyed reading it, please share it with your friends, family, neighbors and like-minded people. And if you have any questions regarding the Goechala Trek, please ask in the comments below. We will try to help you at the earliest.

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