Tale of 2 Backpacker

Get set Go

Trek to Buxa holds a very special place in our hearts, as Buxa was our opening to the magical world of trekking and gradually became the elixir of our otherwise mundane life.

Tale of 2 Backpackers

Road towards Buxa

We started from Jayanti early in the morning with our rented car and reached Santrabari at about 7 AM. At Santrabari, we had delicious Momos from the only shop that stood there. I often wonder, how they make such wonderful momos! The veg momos are yummier that the Momos we find at Kolkata- no offense meant to anyone.

After having a sumptuous breakfast of momos and tea, we started our journey towards Buxa fort. It is 4 km uphill trek. There is well marked path leading to Buxa Fort, so there is no chance of getting lost. We started our journey through the midst of green luscious forest. Being my first trek, I never anticipated that walking uphill would be altogether a different ball game that walking in plains. Within a few minutes, I was huffing and puffing. My backpack seemed to weigh tons. Sweating profusely, I sat down beneath a tree and simply refused to move further!

Tale of 2 Backpackers

Butterflies at Buxa


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Capturing butterflies

After much cajoling by my companion and husband Agni, I started again with renewed zeal. As we went up, the forest became dense and the weather cooled down. Gradually we started to soak in the beauty of nature – evergreen forest canopy, glimpse of rare animals, birds and rare orchids. Butterflies were also seen in abundance.

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Ruins of Buxa Fort – in urgent need of maintenance…


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Ruins of Buxa Fort – in urgent need of maintenance

After a trek of three hours, we reached the first village on the hills, Buxa Sadar Bazar. It is a small village with no electricity and rare mobile connection. The known accommodation was that of Mr. Indra Thapa’s Guest House. We chose to stay near the Buxa Fort, a mere 10 minutes walk from the village. We stayed at a local villager, Mr. Rosomoy’s (meaning – full of juice) homestay. Mr. Rosomoy turned true to his name and within few minutes we were abreast with all the village gossips!!

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Prison cell at Buxa Fort


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Buxa Duar Post Office

From our window, the Buxa Fort could be clearly seen. After having Maggi, we visited the Buxa Fort. The fort was dilapilated and in urgent need of maintenance. The fort was built by the British during their regime. Its claim to fame was because Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose was detained here before his disappearance from India. Our next stop was Buxa Heritage Museum.

Post lunch, we started our trek towards Lepchakha via Tashigaon. Tashigaon is a small village about 2 km from Buxa fort. We passed through the numerous orange orchards to our way to the forest route towards Lepchakha. Santrabari gets its name from the oranges grown here (Santra means orange in Hindi).

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Old Banyan tree at Buxa Fort

We took meandering routes through the forest. The road did not seem to end, but little did we know what awaited us. The forest suddenly ended in what seemed like a small village, and soon we were in the midst of a plateau surrounded by five hills. This is Lepchakha for you. Lepchakha is called the “Queen of Dooars” and I could now understand why. From Lepchakha, all the 12 rivers flowing through Dooars looked like glistening snakes meandering through the plains below. The view was spectacular and breathtaking. The surrounding hills made the place more romantic.

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Chorten at Lepchaka

I soaked in the beauty as much as I could while Agni started capturing them in his camera. In midst of the plateau, was a small chorten. There was 1 homestay for the people who would like to stay at Lepchakha.

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The solitary homestay at Lepchaka

We could not possibly miss the sunset from Lepchakha, so we stayed on till the sunset. After that we started our downhill trek to Buxa Fort. It was already dark when we reached our homestay. Mr. Rosomoy was waiting for us with delicious dinner and his juicy stories. After dinner, we had ‘chaang’ (a local made liquor brewed from rice) from the villagers. We were quite tired and slept as soon as we hit the bed.

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Sunset at Lepchaka

I was woken up the next morning by the sound of chirping birds. Time for return has come. After breakfast, we started our downhill trek towards Santrabari…..

The trek to Buxa and Lepchakha was a treat to our eyes and healing to our senses. The quality time we spent at nature’s lap rejuvenated us to a great extent and we were ready to face the pressures of our daily life and work.

[hr]Some facts:[hr]

How to reach:

Train from Howrah or Sealdah to New Alipurduar Jn. From New Alipurduar, rent a cab to Santrabari. From Santrabari, start trekking towards Buxa Sadar Bazar.

Place to stay:

Buxa Sadar Bazar: Indra Thapa’s homestay

There are few other homestays near Buxa fort.

Lepchakha: one homestay available.

Time to visit:

Throughout the year.

Summers will be quite hot.

There will be heavy rains in the monsoons. Leeches will also be a major problem during this time.

Winters are the best time to visit.


Easy trek. The first half of the hike is steeper and often exasperating for a fresher. But if you take small steps and plenty of breaks eventually you will reach the fort within a maximum time of 2 to 3 hours.


Buxa Fort is at a height of 2600 ft.

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We are Agni and Amrita, two backpackers from Kolkata, India. We are chalk and cheese in nature. Agni is gregarious, fun loving and prolific person. Amrita meanwhile is the quirky nerd, thoughtful & methodical one among the two. It is the love for each other and for travel that binds us together. We believe in being wings to each other and travelling helps us in doing so.

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1 Response

  1. April 2, 2017

    […] is known as the ‘Queen of Dooars’. You have to trek through the meandering jungle path from Buxa to reach Lepchakha. At the end of your road, you will find a plateau surrounded by five hills – […]

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